Henan Food
Yu cuisine /Henan Food (豫菜; Pinyin: Yù cài), also known as Yu banquet (豫宴; Yù yàn), refers to the culinary style of Henan Province, China. It originated in Kaifeng City, Henan Province. In 2023, Kaifeng declared itself the "Capital of Yu Cuisine."
Yu cuisine emphasizes the harmony of the five flavors (sweet, sour, bitter, spicy, salty) and moderate taste. "Moderate" (中; zhōng) means Yu cuisine is not overly sweet, salty, spicy, or sour, but seeks a balance among these flavors. "Harmony" (和; hé) means integrating influences from various regions, combining sweet, salty, sour, and spicy flavors in a single dish to achieve a unified taste.
Modern Yu cuisine developed gradually based on the original court cuisine, official cuisine, market cuisine, and folk cuisine, evolving over time according to the material conditions of the Central Plains. Yi Yin, known as the "Progenitor of Cooking" and "Ancestor of Chinese Cuisine" (中华厨祖), was from Kongsang Village, Qi County, which is now part of Kaifeng City, Henan. His theory of the "harmony of the five flavors" has been passed down for two thousand years, and Yu cuisine is also referred to as the "Mother of the Eight Great Cuisines."
History
As early as the Xia Dynasty, 4000 years ago, Xia Qi hosted a state banquet in what is now Yuzhou, Henan, inviting regional lords, known as the "Fishing Terrace Gathering" (钓台之亭). In the Shang Dynasty, Yi Yin proposed the theories of the "harmony of the five flavors" and "explaining deliciousness through soup," which are the earliest culinary theories related to Yu cuisine. The formation process of Yu cuisine's flavor can be traced back to the late Xia and early Shang dynasties. Yi Yin, the famous minister of the Shang Dynasty who was born in Henan, was later called the "Sage of Cooking" (厨圣) due to his excellent culinary skills. His theory of the "harmony of the five flavors" has been passed down for two thousand years and remains a golden rule for Chinese culinary masters today.
Yu cuisine is a traditional culinary system represented by Kaifeng. It is often categorized by region within Henan:
Eastern Henan (豫东; Yùdōng), represented by Kaifeng, adheres to tradition, is characterized by braised (扒制; pázhì) dishes, and has a moderate taste.
Western Henan (豫西; Yùxī), represented by Luoyang, is famous for its water banquet (水席; shuǐxí), with a slightly sour taste.
Southern Henan (豫南; Yùnán), represented by Xinyang, is characterized by stewed dishes, with a slightly spicy taste.
Northern Henan (豫北; Yùběi), represented by Xinxiang and Anyang, excels at using local specialties and has a heavier taste.
Yu cuisine adheres to the basic tradition of harmonious five flavors and moderate taste, highlighting harmony and moderation. Its distinct characteristic is being mild and palatable without being overly stimulating. The basic principle is that various flavors blend and harmonize, never being extreme.
Characteristics
The characteristics of Yu cuisine are often summarized by its regional specialties: Central plains braising (中扒; zhōng pá, referring to braised dishes), Western water banquet (西水; xī shuǐ, referring to the Luoyang water banquet), Southern pot dishes (南锅; nán guō, referring to pot-stewed chicken or fish), and Northern noodles (北面; běi miàn, referring to various noodles and filled pastries).
In terms of cooking techniques, Yu cuisine is characterized by strict ingredient selection, fine knife work, emphasis on making and using broth, and moderate taste. Henan cuisine utilizes over 50 cooking methods.
Ten Famous Dishes
Sweet and Sour Soft-Braised Fish with Crispy Noodles (糖醋软熘鱼焙面; Tángcù Ruǎnliū Yú Bèimiàn): A historical famous dish of Yu cuisine, originating in Kaifeng. The dish highlights the Yellow River carp, a historical delicacy in Henan. The "soft braising" technique (软熘; ruǎnliū) is characteristic, known for its smooth, glistening sauce.
Pan-Fried and Braised Black Carp Head and Tail (煎扒青鱼头尾; Jiānpá Qīngyú Tóu Wěi): This dish was renowned in the late Qing and early Republican periods, known for its "unique flavor." It uses a large black carp; the head and tail are skillfully arranged on a plate, framing diced fish meat in the center. After pan-frying both sides until golden, the dish is braised with ingredients like winter bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, and scallion sections in rich clear broth over high heat, then reduced over medium-low heat. The sauce is rich, the fish is tender, and the color is bright red. It has a mellow and fragrant taste. In the early Republic of China, Kang Youwei praised it as "flavor comparable to Hou Qing" after tasting it in Bianjing (Kaifeng).
Deep-Fried Crispy Pork Belly (炸紫酥肉; Zházǐsūròu): Known as "better than roast duck." It uses fatty pork belly, processed by soaking, boiling, pressing flat, and slicing the skin. It is marinated for flavor with ingredients like onion, ginger, star anise, and perilla leaves, then steamed until cooked. Finally, it is deep-fried for forty to fifty minutes. During frying, vinegar is repeatedly brushed onto the skin until it turns golden-red and crispy. Sliced and served with white scallions, sweet bean paste, and lotus leaf wraps or thin pancakes. It is crispy, fragrant, and flavorful without being greasy, resembling but surpassing roast duck.
Peony Swallow Vegetable (牡丹燕菜; Mǔdān Yàncài): Originally called Luoyang Swallow Vegetable (洛阳燕菜; Luòyáng Yàncài), or sometimes referred to as Vegetarian Bird's Nest or Mock Bird's Nest outside Luoyang. It is the signature first dish of the Luoyang Water Banquet. The preparation is very meticulous. It uses finely shredded white radish, soaked, drained, mixed with good quality mung bean starch, and lightly steamed in a steamer. Then it is rinsed in cold water, pulled apart, and seasoned with salt. It is steamed again to resemble bird's nest strands. Ingredients like crab sticks, sea cucumber, ham, and bamboo shoot threads are added and steamed through. Finally, clear broth seasoned with salt, MSG, white pepper, and sesame oil is poured over the dish. In 1973, when Premier Zhou Enlai accompanied Canadian Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau to taste this dish, he saw the renowned Luoyang chef Wang Hu Zi decorating it with a sculpted steamed peony flower and remarked, "Luoyang peonies are the best under heaven; now they are blooming in the dish." From then on, it was renamed Peony Swallow Vegetable.
Braised Fish Maw (扒广肚; Pá Guǎngdǔ): Fish maw was a tribute item in the Tang Dynasty and gradually appeared in restaurants during the Song Dynasty, remaining a prized ingredient for centuries. For this dish, seven parts are in the rehydration ("发") and three parts in the cooking, with braising being the best method. The braising in Yu cuisine, particularly "braising on a bamboo mat" (箅扒; bì pá), is unique. For centuries, the standard has been "braised dishes don't need starch, they thicken naturally with skill." Braised Fish Maw, as the first dish of the traditional high-end Fish Maw Banquet (广肚席; Guǎngdǔ Xí), embodies this standard and pursuit. Slices of soft, white fish maw are blanched, then placed on a bamboo braising mat and braised slowly over medium heat in excellent milk-colored broth. The finished dish is soft, tender, rich, and delicious, with a bright, shiny white broth, hence also known as White Braised Fish Maw (白扒广肚; Báipá Guǎngdǔ).
Bianjing (Kaifeng) Roast Duck (汴京烤鸭; Biànjīng Kǎoyā): Bianjing (now Kaifeng) has long been known as a "water city north of the Yangtze River," thus having many duck dishes. Bianjing Braised Duck (爊鸭; āoyā) was a famous market dish in the Song Dynasty. "Āo" referred to cooking in ash. Later, it evolved into roasting over fruitwood fire, and roast duck replaced braised duck as the main method of preparation, spreading north after the Northern Song Dynasty. Bianjing Roast Duck has been popular for a thousand years, known for its crispy skin and tender meat. It is served with lotus leaf pancakes, sweet bean paste, chrysanthemum-cut scallions, and butterfly-cut radishes. Duck bone broth and mung bean noodles can be served afterward, making it a grand meal.
Fried Eight Pieces (炸八块; Zhábākuài): Waiters' calls in Henan restaurants often contained witty phrases. One such phrase was "A chicken is chopped into eight pieces, fragrant, tender, and beautiful," referring to this dish, famous for over two hundred years. It uses a young male chicken from late autumn, cut into eight pieces (four from the legs, four from the wings and breast). Marinated with cooking wine, fine salt, soy sauce, and ginger juice for flavor. Deep-fried in medium-hot oil over high heat, then the heat is reduced to cook thoroughly, and finally increased again to make the outside crispy. The result is crispy outside and tender inside. Served with spiced salt or chili soy sauce, it is very palatable. This dish was one of four Henan dishes that Lu Xun loved to eat. The writer Yao Xueyin praised it, saying, "I like Henan's Fried Eight Pieces the most, it's fragrant and tender."
Clear Broth Abalone (清汤鲍鱼; Qīngtāng Bàoyú): Abalone, also known as Fú yú or Juémíng, has extremely tender meat and is a sea delicacy. It was commonly available in Song Dynasty restaurants, with Jueming Douzi being a representative dish. Clear Broth Abalone, also called Poached Abalone in Clear Broth (清汤氽鲍鱼; Qīngtāng Cuàn Bàoyú), is made by slicing processed abalone, placing it in a large bowl with green peas and ham slices, and then pouring in excellent clear broth seasoned with condiments. The dish relies on poaching in clear broth. The soup is clear and mellow, the abalone is fresh and tender. It is very palatable with a long-lasting aftertaste, showcasing Yu cuisine's skill in making and using broth and achieving depth of flavor that is not weak despite being light.
Braised Lamb with Scallions (葱扒羊肉; Cōngpá Yángròu): Lamb is symbolic of good fortune (祥; xiáng) and was historically food for nobility. In the Song Dynasty, the 72 main restaurants in Bianjing primarily used lamb. Lamb is warm in nature, suitable for all ages. This dish uses cooked fatty lamb ribs, cut into strips, and braised with fried scallion sections and dried bamboo shoot slices on a braising mat. Clear broth is added, and it is braised over medium-high heat until the sauce thickens. Then it is flipped onto a plate, and the remaining sauce in the pot is thickened with starch slurry and finished with a little prickly ash oil before being poured over the dish. The finished dish is soft, fragrant, and palatable, with a rich, mellow flavor.
Braised Sea Cucumber with Leeks (大葱烧海参; Dàcōng Shāo Hǎishēn).
Pastries and Staples (面食)
Henan Steamed Dumplings (河南蒸饺; Hénán Zhēngjiǎo): A famous Henan filled pastry, available in many places, but Cai Ji (蔡记) in Zhengzhou is the most well-known. The skin is mainly made from partially scalded dough, the filling is made from pork hind leg meat, shaped like jiaozi, and steamed over high heat until cooked. The finished product has thin, soft, chewy skin and tender, fresh, fragrant, juicy filling with oil that flows out.
Kaifeng Soup Dumplings (开封灌汤包子; Kāifēng Guàntāng Bāozi): Also known as Kaifeng Small Steamed Soup Dumplings (开封灌汤小笼包子; Kāifēng Guàntāng Xiǎolóng Bāozi), available since the Song Dynasty. These buns have thin skin, large filling, and are full of soup. The filling is tender and mellow. There is a saying, "Lift like a lantern, rest like a chrysanthemum." Since 1922, Kaifeng No. 1 Building (开封第一楼) operated by Huang Jishan became a famous shop for small soup dumplings, and has been renowned for the past twenty years, becoming a culinary symbol of Kaifeng.
Double-Sesame Flatbread (双麻火烧; Shuāngmá Huǒshāo): A famous item from the Hu饼 (Húbǐng) shops in Bianjing (now Kaifeng), still operating today. The dough has an oily outer layer and a flaky inner layer, combined, rolled flat, wrapped around a filling, and shaped into a round饼. Both sides are brushed with water and coated with sesame seeds, then first pan-fried on a griddle and finally baked in a furnace. The finished product is slightly yellow, crispy, with a strong five-spice aroma.
Egg-Filled Pancake (鸡蛋灌饼; Jīdàn Guànbǐng): Hot water dough is used, rolled flat, brushed with oil, and folded. It is cooked on a griddle. The key step is, when the pancake is almost cooked, making an opening and pouring egg mixture inside. The egg needs to be spread evenly and fill the cavity. When cooked, it is crispy outside and fluffy inside, fresh and palatable. Wang Motou old shop (王馍头老店) in Kaifeng is particularly skilled at this.
Leek Head Vegetable Pocket (韭头菜盒; Jiǔtóu Càihé): A "Cai He" is made by enclosing a vegetarian filling, mainly using fresh early spring leek heads, between two thin pancakes and pan-frying them on a flat griddle. The finished product has a white pancake with yellow "flowers" (yellow spots created by air bubbles bursting during cooking). If the heat is controlled well, the "flowers" are even and slightly yellow. The texture is soft and chewy, with the unique fragrance of leek heads.
Scalded Dough Dumplings (Jiao) (烫面角; Tàngmiànjiǎo): Similar to steamed dumplings (蒸饺), both use scalded dough for the skin, but the amount of water used in scalding and the degree of cooking the dough differ, resulting in a different texture. Scalded Dough Dumplings use more water, resulting in a softer dough. They offer a distinct flavor. Pork and cabbage filled ones from Xin'an County (新安县) in Luoyang are the most famous.
Sour Fermented Mung Bean Noodle Soup (酸浆面条; Suānjiāng Miàntiáo): This dish is made by fermenting ground mung bean slurry until sour, adding water, bringing to a boil, cooking noodles until done, and then removing the noodles. A portion of the slurry is thickened with some flour, and then mixed back with the noodles. The noodles are seasoned with prickly ash oil and chili oil, served with celery, spinach, etc. The taste is sour and spicy, with a unique fermented slurry flavor. The most famous version is Luoyang Jiang Miantiao (洛阳浆面条).
Blooming Steamed Bun (开花馍; Kāihuā Mó): Can be traced back to the Jin Dynasty, when steamed buns split into a cross shape were sold. Today's Blooming Steamed Bun is made by adding an appropriate amount of sugar to fully fermented dough, letting it rest, shaping, and steaming. When cooked, the top of the bun splits open evenly like a flower, hence the name. It has a soft and sweet texture.
Pan-Fried Buns (水煎包; Shuǐjiān Bāo): The categorization of filled pastries in Henan is very detailed, such as Water煎包 and Potstickers (锅贴; Guōtiē). The basic procedures are similar: fill dough, place in a flat pan, add water or thin slurry, and pan-fry over high heat. However, Potstickers require adding slurry twice and cook into a connected sheet. Water煎包 are drizzled with sesame oil when almost done and flipped to fry the other side. The biggest difference is the dough: Water煎包 uses fermented dough, while Potstickers use unleavened dough. Water煎包 have a fluffier skin. Water煎包 from Xinyang and Potstickers from Kaifeng are both famous.
Shredded Radish Pancake (萝卜丝饼; Luóbosī Bǐng): Made by mixing a certain amount of lard to create flaky pastry layers for the skin, filling with a shredded radish filling, and pan-frying/baking on a griddle. This pancake is crispy and fragrant, and the filling has a strong, clear radish fragrance. It is a common dessert or staple in Henan banquets.
Snacks (小吃)
Braised Noodles (烩面; Huìmiàn): One of Henan's most representative noodle dishes. Known as "Tang Bing" (汤饼) during the Han and Wei dynasties, names changed later. Song Dynasty Kaifeng restaurants served "Cha Rou Mian" (插肉面) and "Da Ao Mian" (大奥面). Later often called Lamb Huimian (羊肉烩面), known for its chewy, smooth texture, mellow broth, and warming properties. Zhengzhou Huimian boomed in the 1980s, benefiting from economic reform and increased migration. Initially, the old brand "Heji" (合记) Lamb Huimian dominated, followed by "Xiaoji" (萧记) Three-Fresh Huimian (三鲜烩面) which rapidly developed. In twenty years, it became a culinary symbol of Zhengzhou, and a bowl of satisfying Huimian has also become another characteristic flavor of Henan, Zhengzhou, and Kaifeng.
High-Furnace Shao Bing (高炉烧饼; Gāolú Shāobǐng): Also a type of Hu饼. The "high-furnace" was originally a hanging furnace (吊炉; diàolú), sometimes called a "chicken coop furnace" (鸡窝炉; jīwōlú), which could be carried on a shoulder pole and sold along the street. Later, shops became fixed, and the pot on top of the furnace was no longer hung. This pancake is often made with fermented dough, rolled flat, filled, scored, flattened, and then one side is coated with sesame seeds and baked against the furnace wall. The finished product is crispy outside and tender inside. It can be eaten plain, but in Henan folk custom, it is often used as a wrap (夹食; jiāshí) for beef or lamb, fried dough sticks (油条; yóutiáo) and savory fritters (馓子; sǎnzi), or stir-fried glass noodles (炒凉粉; chǎo liángfěn) – all delicious. Therefore, in the Kaifeng area, Shao Bing is often sold by the box; people sometimes visit relatives bringing a few boxes of "You Mo" (油馍; yóumó, another term for this type of flatbread).
Zhuang Mo (壮馍; Zhuàngmó): The largest filled pastry in Henan in terms of volume. Traditional Zhuang Mo in Puyang weigh five jin (about 2.5 kg) each, with 2.5 jin of skin and 2.5 jin of filling, and a diameter of over a foot. Few people, even in the past, could eat a whole one. Therefore, it is often cut and sold. The filling for Lamb Zhuang Mo is often a mix of meat filling, glass noodles (粉皮; fěnpí), and scallions. The dough uses 30% scalded dough and 70% unleavened dough. After filling, it is pan-fried in a flat pan. The finished product is crispy outside and tender inside, rich and delicious.
Oil Swirl (油旋; Yóuxuán): Henan Oil Swirls are made with either 80% scalded dough and 20% unleavened dough, or with warm water dough. "Swirl" (旋; xuán) refers to the shaping process: the dough piece is either stretched or rolled into a long thin strip, spread with filling like meat, chopped scallions, and ginger, then rolled up and pressed into a round shape resembling a swirl. It is first pan-fried on a flat griddle until both sides are golden, then baked in a furnace. This pancake is crispy and flaky outside, and fresh, tender, and fragrant inside.
Peppery Soup (胡辣汤; Húlàtāng): Found throughout Henan, ingredients may vary, but the style is consistent. Vegetarian Peppery Soup is made by boiling water, forming gluten strands (面筋; miànjīn) into tufts, thickening the water with starchy liquid from washing the gluten (面汁; miànzhī) to the right consistency, then adding ingredients and seasoning. Lamb Peppery Soup (in the Kaifeng area) is prepared using meat broth. Regardless of the type, good gluten and good pepper (胡椒; hújiāo) are essential; using chili (辣椒; làjiāo) to replace pepper is incorrect and results in something other than Peppery Soup, also losing the warming and appetite-stimulating effect of pepper.
Lamb Soup (羊肉汤; Yángròu Tāng): Available throughout Henan. In the past twenty years, it has become a popular food for people of all social strata, consumed not only for breakfast but often for lunch as well. Zhengzhou has multiple chain businesses specializing in Lamb Soup. Varieties include clear broth and white broth, and pure soup or soup with added ingredients, each having its merits.
Beef Soup (牛肉汤; Niúròu Tāng): Beef is slightly cooler in nature and lacks the distinct gamey smell of lamb, making it popular with some. Good Beef Soup is available in Luoyang and Kaifeng.
Bowang Guokui (博望锅盔; Bówàng Guōkuī): Named after Bowang Tun (博望屯) in Fangcheng County (方城县), Nanyang area. Legends date its origin back to the pre-Qin period or the Three Kingdoms period. This flatbread's dough is made from 40% fermented dough and 60% unleavened dough, pan-fried over low heat on a flat griddle. Its characteristics are white bottom, top, and interior. It is crispy, fragrant, and slightly sweet when eaten.
Double Lamb Intestines (羊双肠; Yángshuāngcháng): Named for the dish where large and small lamb intestines are carefully processed and boiled, and then eaten with the soup. The lamb intestines are rich and tender, and the soup is extremely mellow. Although it still has a slight gamey aroma, the taste is exceptionally good once you try it. It is a unique snack in Kaifeng. Due to religious beliefs, the Hui ethnic group does not consume lamb offal, therefore items such as lamb kidneys, external kidneys, blood, and placentas are also sold in these lamb double intestine restaurants (catering to others).
Stir-Fried Jelly (炒凉粉; Chǎo Liángfěn): Stir-fried jelly is made from either mung bean starch (绿豆芡; lǜdòu qiàn) or sweet potato starch (红薯芡; hóngshǔ qiàn). First, the jelly block (粉坨; fěntuó) is made, then cut into rectangular pieces and pan-fried in a flat pan. Kaifeng Stir-Fried Jelly requires the pieces to remain intact during frying and is seasoned with the local watermelon soybean paste (西瓜豆瓣酱; xīguā dòubànjiàng), giving it a unique freshness and deliciousness.
Soups (汤类)
Hot and Sour Cuttlefish Roe Sac Soup (酸辣乌鱼蛋汤; Suānlà Wūyúdàn Tāng): Cuttlefish roe sac ("乌鱼蛋") is not an egg but the reproductive gland of the female cuttlefish, produced in coastal areas. Many ways exist to prepare it, but cooking it in clear broth is unique to Yu cuisine. In the 1970s, Yu cuisine master Hou Ruixuan introduced it to the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse, where it became a state banquet dish. The soup must be clear and mellow, difficult for small establishments because they cannot produce good broth. Furthermore, seasoning must be precise, savory-salty with a hint of sour and spicy, and a lightness within the hot and sour. If handled well, it is fresh, palatable, and moderately flavored. This soup could be called the foremost soup of Yu cuisine.
Shredded Tripe Soup (肚丝汤; Dǔsī Tāng): Also called Hot and Sour Shredded Tripe Soup (酸辣肚丝汤; Suānlà Dǔsī Tāng). Uses pork tripe as the main ingredient, seasoned with pepper for aroma. It is a necessary item in banquets to change flavor profiles and stimulate appetite.
Stewed Three Bags (烩三袋; Huì Sāndài): Uses cooked beef tripe parts ("three bags": 百叶; bǎiyè - omasum, 花肚; huādǔ - probably reticulum or a specific preparation of rumen) sliced or cubed. Cooked in white broth over high heat until the broth becomes thick and white. Served at the table with sesame paste, chili oil, and coriander on the side for seasoning. It is a dish with a very mellow and rich broth.
Poached Meatballs (生氽丸子; Shēngcuàn Wánzi): Minced lean pork (70% lean, 30% fat) mixed with seasoning and ingredients to form a paste. Shaped into small, red date-sized meatballs directly into boiling water. Boiled, seasoned. The meatballs are soft and tender, and the soup is very clear and refreshing, making it very palatable.
Hot and Sour Osmanthus (Egg) Soup (酸辣木樨汤; Suānlà Mùxī Tāng): Mùxī (木樨) refers to Osmanthus flowers, which are yellow. The soup gets its name from scrambled egg cooked into shapes resembling osmanthus flowers. Hot and Sour Osmanthus Soup has a rich flavor and is used in banquets to help sober up and stimulate appetite.
Braised and Marinated Dishes (卤味)
Kaifeng Barrel Chicken (开封桶子鸡; Kāifēng Tǒngzijī): A famous chicken for a hundred years. It is crispy outside and tender inside, round like a barrel. It is unique to Kaifeng. The founding brand is "Ma Yuxing" (马豫兴).
Daokou Braised Chicken (道口烧鸡; Dàokǒu Shāojī): A historically famous and nationally renowned dish. It is known for its four qualities: color, aroma, taste, and tenderness ("烂"). "Yixing Zhang" (义兴张) is the authentic brand.
Five-Spice Beef (五香牛肉; Wǔxiāng Niúròu): Available throughout the province. Characterized by its red color, tender meat, and strong aroma of spices.
Five-Spice Lamb Trotters (五香羊蹄; Wǔxiāng Yángtí): A famous Kaifeng snack. They are chewy, fragrant, and tender. Widely popular. Available in savory-salty and numbing-spicy flavors.
Smoked Pork Tripe (熏肚; Xūndǔ): Cooked pork tripe that is then smoked using fruitwood branches, pine branches, and sawdust. It is crisp yet tender, with a clean smoky aroma. It is a famous product of Anyang.